What a lovely stack of books!
The second half of this year has produced some great new cookbooks, and these were my picks for the best and those worth waiting for - surely I am not the only one who counts down the weeks to cookbook releases?!
Below are my thoughts on each book, they are all quite different but all worthy of their place on this list and on my shelf (maybe yours too?). My original thoughts on these books can be read here, plus you can catch up on past Cookbooks Worth Waiting For lists here as well.
Please let me know in the comments below if you have added any of these new releases to your cookbook collection, and what you thought of them!
The links provided are just for your reference. Links to books on Booktopia removed 15/07/2024.
The Plain Cake Appreciation Society by Tilly Pamment (July 2023) - I knew I would like this book. I was not prepared for how much I like it! The Plain Cake Appreciation Society is probably my favourite new release for the whole of 2023. This book is equal parts fantastic recipes and beautiful styling, photography and design. It feels like a warm hug, a comfort on busy or hard days, and gives a sense of Tilly’ warm gentle demeanour throughout.
The Plain Cake Appreciation Society follows on from a series Tilly started on Instagram where she shared a recipe a week, and called it The Plain Cake Appreciation Society. These cakes weren’t the three day project extravaganza type cakes, but more simple homely, yet very flavoursome cakes one wants to eat with a cup of tea most days of the week. These are the kinds of cakes I like to bake and eat, so this book has only increased the number of recipes I want to bake for that mid-week tea and cake moment.
Tea and flowers are taken very seriously in this book (as they should be), and each recipe comes with a suggestion for what tea to serve with the cake and what flowers might best accompany the cake. The combination of these elements, along with the gorgeous photography and styling, create a calm inspirational feeling that allows the reader (or baker) to know a nice cake (which despite the title of the book are really anything but plain - the flavours used will satisfy even the most complex of palettes), a moment of calm and a cup of tea are never far away.
I have tried a few recipes from the book, and I am planning an Off the Shelf post in the near future to go through all of them in more detail. So far the stand out has been the Quince and Blackberry Cake (p.108-10) which comes with the recipe for poached quince (I told you the recipes were full of flavour!). The cake has a brown butter crumble which is genuinely the best and most delicious crumble I have ever tasted. The brown butter flavour really comes through and the short amount of time taken to brown the butter really is worth it.
This is definitely a book for the bakers in your life (or yourself?!), I don’t recommend baking books all the time since I find so many of them are offering the same thing, or don’t feel like they have a really unique voice that really interests me beyond the baking books I already have. Tilly’s The Plain Cake Appreciation Society is the antithesis of this, and I am overjoyed to say it deserves a place on your bookshelf.
Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen by Leah Koenig (September 2023) - This book really lives up to the ‘cookbooks worth waiting for’ element of this series! As wait I have! Sometimes cookbook titles from the US take a while to get here, and the release date for this book was changed so many times I had serious fears I would not get this book until early 2024. Thankfully Portico is now available in Australia (it can be around $60AUD so have a look around for the best price), and I can now relax knowing this wonderful book is at my fingertips at a moments notice.
As I mentioned a few months ago in the original post for this list, I did some recipe testing for this book back in 2021 and enjoyed all the recipes I made. I can now finally say that everything else in the book looks amazing too! As I thought, this book has a very different take on Roman cuisine and opens up so many more dishes to try from the Jewish community of Rome outside of what we might first think of when considering the food of Rome.
I really enjoyed reading Leah’s introduction to the book, where she explains her connection to Roman Jewish cuisine and the impact it had on her. The brief explanation of Roman Jew’s 2000 year history in Rome was also a fascinating read, and reading Leah’s writing on the Ghetto in Rome and seeing the photos taken by Kristin Teig, brings back great memories of my last trip to Rome many years ago. A friend and I made sure to visit the Ghetto and Via del Portico d’Ottavia and we ate fried artichoke and sampled matzah as our side to our meal (rather than some kind of bread). We took a tour of the Tempio Maggiore di Roma, and I now lament we didn’t know about the bakery that sells their famous Pizza Ebraica - a biscuit (not an actual pizza!) filled with dried fruit and nuts. Luckily Leah has a recipe for it on page 273.
Along with Pizza Ebraica I am very much looking forward to trying the Lemony Almond Cake (p.286), Stuffed Tomatoes with Rice (p.174-5) and the Whole Roasted Fish with Raisins and Pine Nuts (p.211). This is a book that is well worth adding to your shelf if you love Italian food and are keen to learn more and widen your understanding of more types of food from Italy.
Garlic, Olive Oil and Everything Else by Daen Lia (August 2023) - Daen’s first foray into cookbook writing is a fun look into her tasty cooking style, using lots of garlic and olive oil! These recipes are tasty and seem to be full of flavour. I really feel Daen’s cooking style translates beyond the world of TikTok and into our kitchens with recipes that are beyond trends, but are just good. I’d suggest Daen’s recipes maybe even suit this more traditional format better, as people picking up this book probably wouldn’t have an issue with the use of olive oil, salt or insert other random thing Daen has been criticised for on TikTok for - my only conclusion is those people aren’t really into food and don’t ‘get’ it?
Daen’s Spanish and Italian heritage really shine through in this book, and if like me you love the style of food and ingredients used in those cuisines, you’ll love this book. I hope we see more of this kind of format from Daen in the future, this book did feel like there could have been more (in terms of recipes, it’s quite a thin book despite it’s slightly larger size overall) and I’m hoping it’s just a first taste of what will we seen from Daen.
We have already tried the Pan-Fried Salmon with Cherry Tomato Confit (p.66), and I’m thinking I will need to make some of Daen’s Focaccia (p.96-99) and use the leftover Cherry Tomato Confit to top the foccacia! I really like the look of many of Daen’s seafood recipes, the One-Pan Roasted Fish Puttanesca (p.68) is high on my ‘to cook’ list, along with the Whole Roasted Snapper with Green Anchovy Butter (p.91). And I wouldn’t be getting the full Daen’s Kitchen experience if I didn’t make Confit Garlic (p.14)!
Gohan: Everyday Japanese Cooking by Emiko Davies (October 2023) - This book gives us a more personal glimpse into Emiko’s food history and influences in a way we haven’t before. I love Emiko’s Italian cookbooks, but this one is even more personal to Emiko as she has finally been able to share the Japanese side of her food self. We are so fortunate that she has, as this book feels deeply personal, and also really informative. I love the illustrated cover and those dotted throughout the book, and how Emiko has brought her trademark writing style to this book. In a similar style to Emiko’s previous cookbooks, this is a book you could just as easily curl up and read as cook from in your kitchen.
The recipes range from basics like how to cook rice, and make staples like panko breadcrumbs and pickled ginger, to breakfast dishes, whole meals and recipes that have been influenced by more Western cooking styles and ingredients that have become popular in Japan over the years.
These recipes are bound by the meaning behind the title of the book, Gohan. Gohan literally translates to ‘rice’ but as Emiko explains, when she spoke to her mother about naming the book this, her mother said that Gohan embodied the idea of an everyday home cooked meal, that wasn’t fussy yet was nourishing. “‘I think the best food is created when you cook for someone love’” said Emiko’s mum Sumie, and I think that, the connection to family via food (both past and present) and a connection to a place, really sums up not only this book but maybe a running theme of Emiko’s work more generally.
I am looking forward to making some Pickled Ginger (p.35), learning how to properly steam rice (p.80-81), try my hand at Japanese Milk Bread (p.221-2) and continue to read more of Emiko’s writing in this book and learn more about her, her family and Japanese food and ingredients generally.
Now and Then by Tessa Kiros (October 2023)* - If you have any of Tessa’s other cookbooks you will know her trademark style. The beautiful design, and use of pattern, the colourful ribbon bookmark and the recipes influenced by her life and family or travels.
Each chapter focuses on recipes influenced by a place or time in Tessa’s life (now or then). The recipes vary a lot, and in any other context might not make sense as a whole. But since this book is part cookbook part memoir for Tessa, it makes sense because it is her story. Many of Tessa’s books remind me of scrapbooks (albeit fancy scrapbooks!), and this one is no different. I can’t help but think Tessa must have a big say in the design process as this book has many personal touches, but also such a different style to many other cookbooks around.
The use of colour in the book is calm and inviting, as are the photographs throughout the book. Now & Then is a book you might buy for the beauty of it and the personal touches and story. Or for someone who is interested in peoples lives, the food that enriches them and beautiful things generally. I am looking forward to trying the Gingerbread (p.50) and the Pistachio Biscuits (p.381).
*This book was gifted to me by Murdoch Books, with the expectation a review would be written. All opinions are my own, and I would have purchased this book myself if it had not been gifted to me.
