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The Jewish Cookbook by Leah Koenig

The Jewish Cookbook by Leah Koenig

Off The Shelf - 'The Jewish Cookbook' by Leah Koenig

Kath May 20, 2020

Bought at: it was gifted to me for Christmas. 

Recipes Made: Jewelled Rice p.174, Chicken and Quince Tagine p.269, Babka p.324, Yeasted Hamantaschen p.342, Candied Quince p.404, Charoset pp.406-409 and Lekvar p.410.

I made the Jewelled Rice on the same night I made the Chicken and Quince Tagine, and wow did I use a lot of pots of pans that night! This is no simple rice dish, but it is very tasty and beautiful. For a more simple version in the future, I would probably make the baked rice with salsa from ‘Simple’ by Ottolenghi as I definitely found it hard to co-ordinate all the pots and pans on the stove and the cooking times to have everything ready along with the Chicken and Quince Tagine. 

Chicken and Quince Tagine + Jewelled Rice

Chicken and Quince Tagine + Jewelled Rice

The Chicken and Quince Tagine was a big hit, and after the quince are candied it’s not a difficult dish to make you just need a little time. I’d never had quince with chicken and of course it was a great pairing. I did use the recipe for Candied Quince from the book as the recipe says, but I think if you already had some poached quince you could definitely use that. I am hoping to make this again whilst quince are still about, I liked it so much! 

Babka

Babka

When I was making Babka a few months ago, I consulted a few recipes one of which was the Babka recipe in this book. Comparing recipes was really helpful, and the recipe I ended up with can be found here. The recipe in this book was for a Cinnamon-Golden Raisin Babka which I definitely need to go back and try without making any of my own adaptations!

Yeasted Hamantaschen

Yeasted Hamantaschen

I had been wanting to try Yeasted Hamantaschen for a while, only ever having made the more shortcrust biscuit like version before. I was delighted when I saw Leah had a recipe for Yeasted Hamantaschen in her book, and I made my own version with Quince Lekvar. I altered the quantities of flour a little from the original recipe, check out my blog post on this recipe for more if you want to try making them (and for more information on what hamantaschen are and when they are traditionally made see this post!).

Making Candied Quince

Making Candied Quince

I was intrigued by the Candied Quince in this book, and I wasn’t sure what the end result would be. I was sort of imagining candied fruit like you would candy orange slices etc, but this actually ended up being more a quicker version of poaching quince. I didn’t find my quince turned a deep ruby red (I’m not sure if this was to do with the variety of quince I used), but once added to the Chicken and Quince Tagine the colour really didn’t matter as the taste was so good!

My version of Charoset

My version of Charoset

In the lead up to the Jewish holiday of Passover I decided I wanted to play around and create my own version of Charoset. Charoset is traditionally eaten as part of the Passover Seder, and comprises fruit (dried and often fresh apple too) and sweet wine. Leah has six different Charoset recipes in this book, all from different parts of the Jewish diaspora. They all have some things in common but also differ slightly in other ways too. I took the parts of each I really liked - rolling Charoset into balls like the Kurdish version and using a combination of dates, figs and a variety of spices like the Yemenite version - to create my own. 

Quince Lekvar

Quince Lekvar

Lekvar was something I had never heard of before. It is a fruit paste used in Central and Eastern European sweets made using dried friut and fruit juice. Prune and apricot are popular versions, but this got me thinking about other dried fruits I could use. I love dried quince, and decided to give making Lekvar a go with it, and it worked so well. I used my Lekvar to fill the Yeasted Hamantaschen I made and used the remainder to fill some untraditional rugelach made with cream cheese dough from the book ‘Beatrix Bakes’ (which were delicious!).

Beatrix Bakes Rugelach with Quince Lekvar

Beatrix Bakes Rugelach with Quince Lekvar

Favourite Things About the Book: My favourite thing about this book is how comprehensive it is. This really could be the one cookbook you own on Jewish food and you would have enough recipes to keep you going forever. And it covers the foods of the wider Jewish diaspora, not just the more common recipes from Eastern Europe (as good as those are!). There are recipes from Jews native to Italy, India, Georgia, Iraq and South Africa. There are even a few recipes which are relics from Jewish life in pre-Inquisition Spain and Spanish occupied Italy.

This book feels so well researched and collated, Leah has done such a great job of providing really interesting recipes and insights about their history, without the book tipping over into a reference book or making the reader feel overwhelmed with information. It remains firmly in the cookbook category, and even despite the lack of food photography (the book is 431 pages so images for each recipe isn’t possible), I find Leah’s writing and the information she is sharing through these recipes so engaging. Each time I pick this book up a different recipe stands out to me, and another post it note goes in to mark it’s importance. And as you can see in the photos of my copy, I have used a LOT of post it notes in this book - which is purely a testament to how many great recipes there are in this book. 

Leah really highlights and champions the diversity within Jewish cuisine, showing those of us who are still learning about the world’s Jewish communities and their food, how much more there is to discover outside of bagels and babka (though naturally recipes for both these carb filled delights that we all know and love are in the book too!). 

The Jewish Cookbook by Leah Koenig

Bookmarked Recipes (to make later!): Caponata alla Giudia p.116, Vegetarian Cholent p.144, Jewish-Style Braised Fennel p.158, Potato Laktes p.184, Eggplant and Tomato Stew p.249, Mandelbrot p.334, Almond Cardamom Cookies p.348.

The Jewish Cookbook by Leah Koenig
In Off the Shelf Tags The Jewish Cookbook, Leah Koenig, Jewish Baking, Jewish Cooking, Cookbooks, Off the Shelf, Cookbook Review
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Now & Again by Julia Turshen

Off The Shelf - 'Now & Again' by Julia Turshen

Kath March 25, 2020

Bought at: it was a Christmas gift in 2018. 

Recipes Made: Garlic and Anchovy Butter Toasts p.31, Arugula Salad with Lemon, Pine Nutes and Pecorino p.35, Celebration Chicken with Sweet Potatoes and Dates p.54 and Baked Saffron Rice p.55. 

I made the Garlic and Anchovy Butter Toasts in a whim recently, and they were divine. I ended up using a whole tin of anchovies, as I couldn’t bare to waste them (and my family and I love them! A lot!). I would make this again in a heartbeat, and will anytime I want to have a super tasty bread based side dish. Though having said that, I could definitely eat this as a main. Most definitely!

For Christmas lunch last year, we were looking for a nice simple yet tasty salad to go with out main meal of ham, hot smoked salmon and a baked rice dish (the Ottolenghi one I have made from ‘Simple’ many times). I was looking through some of my cookbooks, came across Julia’s Arugula (Rocket!) Salad with Lemon, Pine Nuts and Pecorino. It was just the simple yet tasty salad we were looking for. We have made it a few times since, and often use grana padano instead of pecorino as that is a cheese we always have at home. 

Arugula Salad with Lemon, Pine Nuts and Pecorino

Arugula Salad with Lemon, Pine Nuts and Pecorino

Julia’s Celebration Chicken is a riff of a recipe, Chicken Marbella, that many cookbook authors seem to take inspiration from. I adore Ottolenghi’s version of this (see my Off the Shelf post on ‘Simple’), so I knew I had to give this version a go. I liked Julia’s version, however it did lack that intense moorish tastiness that Ottolenghi’s version has. I always find recipes that ask for water, instead of something more tasty like wine or chicken stock, are always a little underwhelming. I now see a red flag when I read recipes that ask for water in this way, as I always find them lacking in flavour. Despite this, I did make Julia’s Celebration Chicken as the recipe says, with water, and when I make it again I will definitely be adding 1/4 cup of white wine or chicken stock instead. 

I also made the Baked Saffron Rice to serve with the chicken, which is an adaptation of the Ottolenghi recipe I mentioned above. I really like baking rice this way, it cooks really evenly and is very stress free. I didn’t find this version nearly as tasty as Ottolenghi’s, but that would probably be because his recipe has a delicious green olive salsa that would make anything taste good. If I made this recipe again, I think I would cook the saffron with the rice, rather than adding the saffron infused water at the end before serving. The saffron was really lost on me in this recipe, and I think the flavour would be more obvious if it had time to cook in with the rice. 

Now and Again by Julia Turshen

Favourite Things About the Book: Similar to Julia’s first book ‘Small Victories’, ‘Now & Again’ contains Julia’s genuinely lovely writing, and very thoughtful recipes. This book is based on the premise that many aspects or leftover ingredients of the recipes can be used for something else, and Julia gives some great suggestions. I also really like how the book is organised. The book is divided by the seasons, then within that into menus such as, ‘Red-Checkered Tablecloth Late Saturday Lunch’, ‘Rosh Hashanah Dinner’ and ‘A Not-Kosher Jewish Christmas’.

Bookmarked Recipes (to make later!): Italian Flag Baked Pasta p.33-34, Applesauce Cake with Cream Cheese and Honey Frosting p.58-60, Striped Bass with Butter Verde p.142, Pistachio Mandelbrot Cookies p.148, Best Matzo Ball Soup p.166-167 and Hikers’ Cookies p.220.

Now & Again by Julia Turshen
In Off the Shelf Tags Now & Again by Julia Turshen, Julia Turshen, Cookbooks, Off the Shelf, Cookbook Review
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Citrus by Catherine Phipps

Off The Shelf - 'Citrus' by Catherine Phipps

Kath February 18, 2020

Bought at: Gleebooks, Glebe (Sydney) on one of the many visits I made the to the store seeking calm and distraction while I worked nearby. 

Recipes Made: Bergamot and Lemon Roast Chicken p.103, Classic Lemon Tart p.168 and Lemon Curd p.244. 

Citrus by Catherine Phipps

I made the Bergamot and Lemon Roast Chicken when we had bergamots in season, and I think I may have roasted the chicken with half a bergamot inside the chicken too (not that the recipe says to do so), purely just to enjoy the bergamots even more. I really liked that this recipe used vermouth, which has such a wonderful fragrant smell whilst cooking, and while my gravy didn’t look much (maybe all gravy is just an ugly brown colour yet filled with flavour?), it did taste great! 

Bergamot and Lemon Roast Chicken ready for the oven

Bergamot and Lemon Roast Chicken ready for the oven

I made the Classic Lemon Tart with a mixture of homegrown bergamots, homegrown lemonades and lemons. I really liked the flavour of the tart and I liked that the pastry didn’t require using a food processor too. My filling cooked with a few bubbles on top from whisking it all up, probably because I didn’t use the right kind of cream - I used pouring rather than heavy cream , and I ended up with so much filling left over I made another only slightly smaller tart! Next time I will definitely be using heavy cream! I wrote a blog post about this recipe, and how I first heard about this book which you can find here. 

Classic Lemon Tart made with lemon, bergamot and lemonades

Classic Lemon Tart made with lemon, bergamot and lemonades

Last year I found yuzu in my local green grocer for the first time, so I bought a couple and then had to decide what to do with them. This book being my bible on what to do with citrus, I decided on making Catherine’s recipe for Lemon Curd with them, which she suggests as a good substitute for lemons in the introduction to the recipe. I really liked this curd recipe, it produced a lovely consistency of curd and it firmed up even more once it was refrigerated. I used the curd to fill mini tarts, as shown in this blog post. 

Lemon Curd made with Yuzu

Lemon Curd made with Yuzu

Favourite Things About the Book: I really love the focus on just one type of food in this book. The beginning of the book has an explanation of all types of citrus, from lemons and limes, to yuzu and finger limes. I especially love that the book contains much about bergamots, which I love and had not long started growing when I purchased the book. I refer to this book, and the introductory sections in particular, a lot when I find unusual types of citrus or want to know more about what I could use as a substitute. Catherine also details how to dry citrus, freeze, candy and much more. There is basically every recipe you will ever need for cooking or baking with citrus in here, and the cover is a lovely marbled yellow fabric that feels wonderful to the touch (even if I do stress about getting such lovely cookbook covers dirty when I am using them in the kitchen!). 

Bookmarked Recipes (to make later!): Bergamot and Rose Turkish Delight Pavlova p.166, Earl Grey and Rose Parfait p.178, Quince, Clementine and Rose Jelly p.225 and Turkish Delight p.226. 

Citrus by Catherine Phipps
In Off the Shelf Tags Citrus by Catherine Phipps, Citrus, Cookbooks, Off the Shelf, Cookbook Review
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Cookbooks Releases 2020

Cookbooks Worth Waiting for in 2020

Kath January 31, 2020

I'm sure I'm not the only one, but when the prospect of a new year means new cookbook releases I get pretty excited. Every now and then I check the 'Coming Soon' in the Cookbook section of Booktopia and have a look at what and when things are going to be released. Sometimes I preorder straight away (as was the case for a few below!), others go into my wishlist so I can remember them for another time. 

Below are a few new releases for 2020 I am especially excited about. 

What cookbooks would you add to the list?

Best Cookbook Releases 2020
  1. 'Now for Something Sweet' by Monday Morning Cooking Club - release date 24th February 2020: The highly anticipated fourth book by the Monday Morning Cooking Club ladies is the top of my list, because if the previous three books are anything to go by, it will be good. And the fact that it is almost solely dedicated to sweets means it's right up my alley!

  2. 'Beatrix Bakes' by Natalie Paull - release date 1st March 2020: This is the cookbook all those who have visited the bakery Beatrix in North Melbourne have been waiting for. I visited once last year, and the one cake I tried had me desperate to recreate it at home it was that good (recipe here if you are interested). Soon there will be a whole book filled with these glorious recipes, my guesswork will no longer be needed!

  3. 'Confidence in the Kitchen' by Emmylou MacCarthy - release date 1st June 2020: If you follow Emmylou on Instagram, or have watched her TV show, you'll know this book is bound to be as fun and jam packed with ideas as possible. Emmylou has showed some of the BTS of the photoshoot for this book, and it has been so interesting to really see more of what goes on before a books hits the shelves.

  4. 'Falastin' by Sami Tamimi & Tara Wigley - release date 31st March 2020: Co-written by one half of the Ottolenghi empire, Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley are taking us through Palastine via recipes and stories. I am imagining this book to be in a similar vein to Jerusalem (by Tamimi and Ottolenghi), and I for one cannot wait.

  5. 'Table Manners The Cookbook' by Jessie Ware & Lennie Ware - release date 3rd March 2020: If you listen to the podcast 'Table Manners' this is the cookbook for you. Mother and Daughter team up to compile the recipes they made their podcast guests, and I think I'll have to listen to a few more episodes before the book is released!

Cookbook Releases 2020

Links to books on Booktopia removed 15/07/2024.

In From The Mailing List, Off the Shelf Tags Cookbooks, New Cookbooks 2020, Monday Morning Cooking Club, Beatrix, Emmylou Loves, Sami Tamimi, Table Manners, Cookbook Review, Cookbooks Worth Waiting For
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Cookbooks 2019

The Hottest Cookbook Releases of 2019

Kath December 1, 2019

This is the time of year where it becomes obvious that some pretty good cookbooks have been released. The few months in the lead up to Christmas see's us welcome many new titles to the cookbook section of our favourite bookshops (or even our own cookbook shelves!). Here are the recent releases I am most excited about. 

  1. Veg by Jamie Oliver - As a lover of vegetarian food I was really excited to hear Jamie Oliver was releasing a book dedicated to veg. It's filled with really interesting and often fairly simple recipes and great food photography (I love it when a book has an image for each recipe!).

  2. Bake Australia Great by Katherine Sabbath - This book seems like pure fun. And I don't think we could expect anything else from the queen of cakes Katherine Sabbath. Katherine and her wild imagination have dreamed up a selection of recipes paying homage to all things Aussie.

  3. Just Desserts by Charlotte Ree - A super cute book by a super lovely person. This little book packs a punch in terms of fun, colour, design and photography. And of course baking recipes! I tried the Brown Butter Bundt at one of the book release events, and it immediately went straight to the top of my must bake list.

  4. From the Oven to the Table by Diana Henry - Diana Henry is a food writer based in the UK, and if you've not heard of her you're in for a treat. Diana creates beautiful recipes and gorgeous cookbooks, and this one is all about easy and tasty food that takes minimal effort from you. I have bookmarked many recipes in this book, but I first want to start with Chicken with Plums, Honey and Pomegranates - as soon as plums are in season! Check out Diana's previous releases such as How to Eat a Peach for more divine recipes and food writing.

  5. Just Add Love by Irris Makler - If any book could be described as a book filled with love, this is it. This book compiled by journalist Irris Makler, shares the stories and recipes of Holocaust survivors. The stories are detailed and to be honest, they are what keep me picking up this book to read more. Irris also has a blog of the same name which I highly recommend you check out if you want to know more.

  6. The Little Library Year by Kate Young - If you are an avid reader as well as a lover of cookbooks this is the book for you. Kate had created recipes to suit the changing seasons and paired them with the perfect read. I own Kate's first book, The Little Library Cookbook, which contains recipes created from the pages of Kate's favourite novels, and even though I am not a very avid reader of novels I still love the book and particularly enjoy the Harry Potter references!

Cookbooks

Links to books on Booktopia removed 15/07/2024.

In From The Mailing List, Off the Shelf Tags Cookbooks, 2019, Cookbook Review, Best Cookbooks
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Nigella Christmas by Nigella Lawson

Nigella Christmas by Nigella Lawson

Off The Shelf Christmas Edition - 'Nigella Christmas' by Nigella Lawson

Kath November 13, 2019

Bought at: The Cookery Book, Northbridge (Sydney), many years ago.

Recipes Made: Cranberry and White Chocolate Cookies p.208 and Spruced Up Vanilla Cake p.198. 

Nigella Christmas

The Cranberry and White Chocolate Cookies (or biscuits as us Aussies usually call them), have been quite a Christmas baking staple at our house since we got this book. They are quick to make, very satisfying and lend themselves to lots of adaptations. This recipe also uses pecans, which we usually leave out as we never have any. 

I made a version of the Spruced Up Vanilla Cake a few years ago, and posted it here on the blog. I added fresh raspberries to the cake, and served it with a rose syrup. I do however very much like the idea of a good vanilla cake, and this one is one of those. Its quite easy to make, and when cooked in a bundt tin, looks immediately spectacular despite the little effort the cake takes to make!

Raspberry and Rose Bundt Cake

Raspberry and Rose Bundt Cake

Favourite Things About the Book: Cookbooks that are dedicated to Christmas are always a joy to read and cook from, even if our hot Australian Christmas doesn’t lend itself to all the recipes. I especially like the way Nigella has organised this book, with chapters dedicated to ‘manageable mass catering’, ‘serve later sides’ and ‘stress free suppers’. Christmas can feel like quite a stressful time of year, but with the calmness of Nigella on your side, the Christmas food preparation can be made much more manageable. 

This is also one of those books that needs to be perused during the year as well, not just at Christmas. As some of the more English Christmas fare doesn’t suit our warm climate, it would be great to go back to some of these recipes mid-year when we are enjoying Winter. 

Nigella Christmas

Bookmarked Recipes (to make later!): Pumpkin and Goat’s Cheese Lasagne p.34-6, Chargrilled Peppers with Pomegranate p.58-9, Festive Couscous p.97, Beetroot Orzotto and Scarlet-Speckled Loaf Cake p.202. 

Nigella Christmas
In Off the Shelf Tags Nigella Christmas, Nigella Lawson, Christmas, Cookbooks, Off the Shelf, Cookbook Review
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